Here is a working definition of “developing country”: a place where people trust the sushi and distrust the tap water. Wherever you go these days, sushi goes. I’ve spotted it from India to Haiti, Nigeria to Anguilla, Argentina to China, and in this seaside village. A local restaurant here, La Huella, offers beneath its menu this supplement: “Sushi todos los días,” or sushi every day. But they won’t serve you tap water. In recent weeks of roaming through the United Arab Emirates, India, Colombia, Argentina and Uruguay, the thought stirred that sushi has become an easy shorthand for globalized refinement. It does today what speaking French once did: conveniently signal a modern sophistication. The tap water is another story. By Anand Giridharadas. Read more.